The Ultimate Jewish Guide to Milan: What to See, Eat and Do

Milan is arguably one of the most underrated cities in Italy – and I say this not just because I grew up there.

At first glance, Milan may not seem as majestic and scenic as Rome or Florence, but this northern town actually has a rich cultural pursuits that are sure to delight any type of wanderer.

More specifically, Milan is one of the country’s premier Jewish centers and has kosher restaurants, a fact that is not surprising considering the city’s history dates back to the Roman Empire. Today, about 12,000 Jews live in Milan, making it the largest Jewish community in Italy after Rome.

Here’s an overview of what to see, where to go, and of course, what to eat while exploring Milan. Fair warning, though: after reading this guide, you may find yourself impulsively looking for the next available flight!

Where to go

Sinagoga Centrale di Milano

A 10-minute walk from the famous Duomo of Milan is the city’s main synagogue, popularly known as the Sinagoga Centrale di Milano. It was built in 1892 and subsequently rebuilt and renovated in 1947 and 1997.

As the main religious center of the local community, the synagogue is very beautiful and seamlessly incorporates various design themes. Particularly striking are the 23 stained windows with a rich collage of Jewish symbols, from Red David and Hebrew letters to horns and rulavs.

Fun fact: These enchanting windows are the work of famous New York artist Roger Selden.

Memorial della Shoah

Located at Milan Central Station, this memorial is one of Europe’s most important historical landmarks and reflects its tragic past.

World War II cast a terrible shadow over Milan, especially in San Vitor Prison, where up to 1,200 Jewish prisoners were held. From here, Jews were taken to the secret underground platform 21 inside the railway station, where they were deported, mostly to Auschwitz. Chillingly, the existence of the platform remained largely unknown to the public in the decades after the war.

It wasn’t until 1995 that a local Catholic organization contacted Milan’s Jewish community to inform them about the grim platform. A few years later, in 2002, plans to transform the platform into a memorial began. The website was officially launched on Holocaust Remembrance Day in January 2013. Today, visitors will see two vans used for death evictions, as well as a wall engraved with the names of all those forcibly taken from the station.

Riparto Ebraico del Cimitero Monumentale (Jewish part of the memorial cemetery)

The Jewish Quarter of the Chimitro Monument was built in 1872 to replace three old Jewish cemeteries that no longer exist.

The differences between Jewish and non-Jewish cemeteries are quite striking – many Jewish graves are covered with stones rather than flowers, a practice rooted in Jewish tradition.

Here you can also visit a memorial commemorating the Jews who perished in the Holocaust and step into a special ceremonial hall used by the local community. Once inside, notice the glass windows celebrating Israel’s 12 tribes. These glass windows are inspired by the famous works of Jewish artist Marc Chagall and designed by Milanese artist Diego Admani.

Centro di Documentazione Ebraica Contemporanea (Center for Contemporary Jewish Documentation)

Just a short walk from Milan Central Station, the Center for Contemporary Jewish Documentation studies Italian Jewish life and culture, with a special focus on the Holocaust and contemporary history.

Here you can browse important historical documents, read various books, and learn more stories about the country’s Jews.

Founded in 1955 by the Italian Jewish Youth Movement, the center is a non-profit organization that now operates as a media center, library, and historical archive, collecting stories and voices from the past.

Where to eat

Milan’s culinary scene is as rich and diverse as its history, including Jewish traditions. There are plenty of kosher restaurants in town.

At the Ba Ghetto restaurant (located on Sardinia Avenue, just a few minutes from the National Theater), you can indulge in Jewish Roman cuisine, including pasta, grilled meats and fish, falafels and typical local delicacies: kosher-style fried artichokes.

The Denzel restaurant, while less flashy, is just as delicious, with burgers, wings and steaks always cooked just right, and the staff very helpful.

Next door to Denzel is the relatively new Snubar restaurant, which specializes in Lebanese cuisine. Try delicious kibbeh meatballs, taboule salad, lafa-wrapped shawarma, arayes (mince-stuffed pita) or manaish (Middle Eastern pizza) with zaatar.

If you’re craving dairy, head to Carmel, a low-key pizzeria that offers kosher pies and pasta to rejuvenate your taste buds.

My Kafé is another dairy gourmet destination and the perfect place to enjoy a quick bite. It is one of the restaurants (if not the only one) in Milan that offers bagels. Other excellent menus include piadine, a traditional Italian flat bun filled with a variety of toppings, and a plate of smoked salmon with zucchini, avocado, tomatoes, and corn.

Where to spend the Sabbath

A key detail for those who follow traditional practices: there are no ERUVs in Milan. However, the Jewish presence of the city ensures that you are never too far from the synagogue. In addition to the central synagogue, there are several other synagogues scattered throughout the city.

There is also a Chabad in town that offers Shabbat meals and can assist you in arranging accommodation suitable for Sabbath. You can order food through Chabad’s website or make prepaid reservations at Ba Ghetto.